Costumes of Different States of India

PUNJAB

Male Costumes

There are two specific lower garments both Pyjamas are baggy and are known as Sulthan or Salwar. The second type is tight and is known as Churidar. The Churidar is loose above the knees and tight below where as Sulthan have big pouches and it has very wide Ghera. Punjabis are rarely seen wearing Dhothis. A Lungi known as Tehimas is common in some area. Both the edges of Tehimas are brought together and knot is formed in the front side. In few Brahmins communities Dhothi is worn with the underside brought in front from left side and tucked in at the navel. Lower edges through the legs are tucked at the back. The rest of the legs are tucked at the back. The rest of the portion was brought from right side in the front and was pleated and tucked in the waist.

Upper garment known as Kurthas was very common. It was buttoned up in the front centre or left side. On ceremonial occasions Kurtha was worn along with Achkan. A similar coat known as Sherwani a small under skirt known as Nina with short sleeves and button in front was worn. Final article of clothing was a long length of cloth neatly folded and tide around the waist at festival occasions. Sometimes a waist length sleeveless or short sleeved Koti was worn. This Koti was embroidered with golden or silver thread.

Head Dress

The head dress of Punjabi males is a conical cap known as Kullah around which a muslin cloth was wrapped with one end flapping rather at the back or at the side. Sometimes only muslin piece is wrapped around the head. It is known as Sapha. Another head dress very commonly used is loosely twisted or folded turban, Pagrin or Pagg.

Female Costumes

Punjabi woman used to dress up on Salwar Kameez but the Ghera of Salwar was more than the Ghera in men’s wear. Men’s folk wore cotton Salwar. Silk was used only on ceremonial occasions where as women folk wore only silken or rich material Salwar Kameez was a tight fitted garment with long draping sleeves. With the Kameez and Salwar they took a short scarf known as Chunni/Dupatta/Chunri. Odhani or Laca were long scarfs which where generally ornamented along the border either by golden or silver embroidery known as Gotha Kinari.

The other garment was a Lehanga, a kind of skirt with a belt at the waist and lots of pleats all around. This garment was also known as Soya or Ghaghra. This is seen only in orthodox families. This Ghaghra used to have a border on the lower edge which was known as Lavani. A short thigh length Kameez was worn with the Lehenga. With the Muslim influence strengthening Punjabi women adapted Sharrara and Garrarha which is one piece. While going out of the house Punjabi women used to cover their whole body with Jaguli. It was something like a Burkha and was worn even by Muslims invaded our country.

Himachal Pradesh

The people from the upper hills are called as Ghaddies and those from the lower hills are called Paharies. These people have different costumes. For the men folk, the essential features of Ghaddies are the Chola Dora. The Chola is a multi joined garment of white woolen material descending in case of men a little above the knees worn as coat tied around the waist with Dora which is a dark woolen rope of great length. For the women folk the essential feature of Ghaddies were Salwar Kameez when at home. When they go to work or travel, they wear Chola Dora like men. It descends till the feet like a gown. It is a loose garment with many folds. The length of the Dora varies from 2 to 2.5 yards.

Peasant women from Kulu wear Lehenga Choli with a Dupatta known as Chaddri. Men wear Gandhi kurta and Churidaar Pyjama which is baggy at the top and tight at the ankles with horizontal folds. They also wore a special type of cap, white or black in colour with a set band in red and blue.

The lower hills pandits wear Kurta Pyjama. Kurta has a round neck and two side pockets. Cotton jacket is worn over the Kurta. On the shoulders they take a rich checked muslin cloth, called Parna. At home they wear slippers known as Phullan. Old men wear Pagrin and young wear black round cap. Prestigious people wear Achkan which is either white or black. Women of the Lower hills wear Churidaar Pyjama and Kurta. Churidaar is baggy above the knees and tight below. A big Dupatta called Chaddri is taken with which they always cover their heads. A woolen Chaddri made of Paghmina woven at home is taken over a Dupatta.

In cold climate both men women wear a waist coat and a special type of woolen cap with a flap. They wrap their waist with woolen and cotton pieces of cloth. Men wear woolen shirts with long coats or sleeveless jackets. Women in some areas wear Kurtas with woolen waist coats. In Kinnaur district, they have a garment known as Dhoti, which is wrapped around the body like a Saree. They wear full sleeved blouses and have a shawl wrapped over their shoulders, the ends of which are held together in front with a silver hook. The material is normally local made. Brides wear yellow coloured Chouga made of hand woven being cut. Red cotton Dupatta with all over Zari work is taken over. Another Dupatta called Salru is taken over the red Dupatta. After the hawan ceremony the bride wears a traditional satin skirt and Ghaghra. The bridegroom wears cotton Dhoti with a red border. On top it a silk or cotton Kurta is worn. He also carries a Chaddri.

Gujarat

Male Costumes

Dhoti is common garment among the men folk. Men of Savarashtra wore Dhoti with front pleats formed by the portion of the left side and the lower portion of the right side tucked at the back. This Dhoti is called Kuccha. But the men of Brahmin community wore Dhoti in a different manner. They pick up the lower edge of pleats and tucked them at the waist so that no loose pleats were formed. This form of Dhoti is called Dhotia/Dhotora/Potiya.

A short double breasted jacket fastened on left side and tight fitting upto the waist called Chaubandi was also worn. This jacket had long narrow sleeves with a few horizontal folds at the wrist. This jacket was also known as Bodiyan/Badan. On ceremonial occasion they wore a long coat called Jama/Angrakha/Vagho. They carried a piece of fabric folded and draped over the shoulder known as Dupatta/Pachedi/Angvastra/Upvastra/Upvarni. Head dress consists of performed turban known as Pagrin or freshly folded Pagrin known as Sapha/Pheto.

Female Costumes

In Gujarat Ghaghra was worn as under garment over which a five yard Saree was tied. Ghaghra even being an under garment is richly embroidered and is called Caniyo or Carino. The Saree was worn in two different styles.

Saree was tucked in at the left side carried through waist from back and brought to the front over the right hip formed in two few pleats and these pleats were tucked in the Carino. This manner was called Oti.
Pleats were tied into a knot and held with Kamarbandh known as Pheta. Remaining part of the Saree was carried backward and then to cover the head and brought to the front right shoulder or tucked on left side of waist. The portion of the Saree hanging back is called Phadek/Sodia and the portion covering head is called Lagger/Ghunghat.

The upper part of the body is covered with backless Choli called Kacali. Some older women wore front fastening Choli. This was usually worn by tying up in front with two lapels. Saree worn by Gujarat women had a border which is called Choraleka/Gotha. The common term used for cotton Sarees was Laguda. Silken Saree were of three types.

Paithan Saree – Red silk with silver or golden border and small motifs all over the field

GharChoroSaree – White silk with red circular tie and dye motifs

Ghatapoda – Any colour silk with black and white border.

Rajasthan

Male Costumes

The lower garment of men folk was Dhoti or Churidaar Pyjama. The Dhoti worn in Rajasthan was much shorter than the Dhoti of other parts of the country. Along with the Dhoti they wore Barabandi or Charbandi. It was a garment fitting tight upto the waist and below waist it was flared. It had long tight sleeves and strings tied on the left side. Barabandi was also a short jacket without flare and with half sleeves. Besides Barabandi they used to wear a Kurta called Achkan.

For the head, they wore a freshly folded turban called Potia. They also carried a neatly folded fabric over the shoulders called Khesla. Over the turban they used to tie a square piece of cloth folded in a triangular shape and tied at the chin. This scarf was known as Rumal.

Female Costumes

The lower costumes of female were Ghaghra or Lehenga. These Ghaghras were of two types. In the first type triangular pieces were joined together so that circumference at the lower edge was large as compared to the circumference at the waist. This was known as Gehra Ghumalo. The second type of the Ghaghra was an ordinary skirt with gathers inserted at the waist belt. These Ghaghras were richly embroidered. The Gehra Ghumalo is otherwise called as Kalidaar Ghaghra. Here the Kalis were of different bright colours. Married women used to carry Phetia, a piece of cloth tucked at the waist. The front part of the Phetia had danglers attached to it. Widows were not allowed to use Phetia.

The upper garment of Rajasthan women was a backless Choli known as Kacali/Kacava. These Cholis were also brightly coloured. The third piece of their costume was an Odhani. The Odhani was tucked on the left side of the waist. Then carried back and covering the head. It was brought in the front from the right shoulders and tucked at the left side of the waist. Another manner of carrying the Odhani was that the back hung below; covering the head and the two edges were brought in front and tucked in the Choli. The Odhani was printed or tied and dyed in bright colours. The borders of Odhani were worked with Gota Kinari or silver and golden threads. The Gota Kinari was known as Bankeri/Bankudi. While going out women used to cover themselves with a white sheet known as Thirena.

Maharastra

Male Costumes

The lower garments of men of Maharastra used to be a Dhoti called Dhotar. This Dhoti used to be white with narrow coloured border. The Dhoti was pleated on the left side and tucked tightly at the waist. The other edge was brought in the front and tucked at the left side. The lower edge was folded up till mid calf. These pleats were known as Kasa.

The upper part of the body was covered with a short jacket known as Banyan. This Banyan was like Barabandhi worn in Rajasthan. This Banyan had short sleeves and it was fastened on the left side. Over this Banyan a long coat called Jama was worn. A neatly folded Dupatta called Anghavastra/Upvastra/Upvarni was carried on the shoulders. At times they wore only a Dhotar and Anghavastra. The men of Maharastra wore a performed or a freshly folded turban as the head dress.

Female Costumes

Women of Maharastra used to wear a nine yards long Saree had borders lengthwise widthwise or on both sides of the Pallu. One manner of wearing the Saree was by forming the pleats at the back. The Pallu was then used for covering the head and then brought in front and tucked at the waist. This style of wearing the Saree was like a skirt. This style of wearing the Saree was known as Gola Nesana. The upper part was covered with a Choli with sleeves till the elbow. A scarf or Dupatta called Sala was carried on rare and ceremonial occasions to cover the head.

Uttar Pradesh

Male Costumes

The lower garment of men of UP was a Dhoti. The front pleats were formed from the portion of the Dhoti that came from the right side. Another mode of wearing Dhoti which was and is present among the agriculturist class is to tuck the left side or draw up at the back. Then to take the portion coming from the right side lengthwise and rolling it upto wrap around the hip and at front to form a knot with the remaining portion. The Pyjama was an item of formal dress. It was distinguished into a number of varieties of Churidaar Pyjama.

The upper garment of men folk was a short tunic with buttons in the centre front. The tunic could be sleeveless or could have short or long sleeves. The tunic with short sleeves was known as Nina. If the upper lapel of the garment was fastened over the left side, it was known as Angarekha/Achan/Jama. For ordinary wear common upper garment was Bengalbandi which was a short close fitting coat with double lapels, the upper being tied on the left side. It reached up till the waist and had tapering with a pair of strings centrally at the lower end of the chest. It was known as Mirgai. The sleeveless garment was known as Bandhi or Pha. It was common amongst the lower classes of society.

Three types of head dresses were prevalent amongst the men of UP one was white cap, Kulla which was long enough to cover the ears of children. The second was a loose piece of cloth folded around the head. It was called Sapha/Peta/Memdasa/Nuretha. Among some people of eastern districts the Sapha was so arranged that it served a double purpose of turban and scarf called Gamcha. The third type of head dress was a pre folded turban called Pagrin.

Female Costumes

The lower garments of the women folk was a skirt called Lehenga. This garment had lesser number of gathers than a Ghaghra. The ladies of the upper class till recent times wear a five to six yards Saree. This upper part of the body was covered with Angiya/Choli. The front piece is fastened at the back with strings or straps. The portion of Choli covering the breast was called Katori. Over the Lehenga a short Kurta and a jacket were worn as the upper garments.

Ornaments

All women wore rings in their toes which were called Bichwa. They wore Tagri at the waist and red Bindi on the forehead. Sindoor in the parting of the hair were essential for married women. The high class women wore Hasli at the neck. This was made of gold or silver. Other ornaments were Baruband at the upper arm, Dasti around the waist and Jimbas. Men wore gold earrings and gold buttons on the Kurtas and Angharekhas. They also wore watches with golden chains.

Footwear

At home footwear was a wooden chappal with rubber band called Khudaun. For formal occasion’s velvet embroidered chappals were worn. Men wore Khudaun and shoes without laces.

Madhya Pradesh

Male Costumes

In this region, Pyjama disappears completely around the Dhoti called Cadara is worn in a very different manner. It is tucked behind in pleated style. The surplus portion of Dhoti coming from the right side is taken up, pleated widthwise and tucked in at the navel. It is not customary to draw up the lower ends of the hanging pleats, so the lower ends of the pleats keep on dangling about. The cloth does not have any coloured border. The upper part of the body was covered with a sheet. Jama a waist length coat was another upper garment, well to do families wore tunics called Pikran/Paidrn. The Pyjama worn in the region was called Kurana. Long conical turbans with border in the front were worn as head dress. Men from lower classes wore cap Bajubandh made of beads and stones was men’s ornament. They also wore necklace made of coins and red and black stones.

Female Costumes

A skirt of 8 to 10 yards was the main lower garment. With the skirt they carried an Odhani. In Bengal and central and western parts of the state, Saree was common garment amongst women. The Saree passes on the right shoulders cover the head and the free end is left over the left shoulder. The regular attire of the women is formed by a coloured Saree covering the figure from the head to knees. Married women cover their heads with the loose end before allowing it to dangle over the shoulder or the back. Except for women of certain castes most of them wore a bodice called Choli/Angia. Women of working classes used to draw up to front lower end of the Saree and tuck it at the back.

Ornaments

The most important ornament was shaped jewelry studded with jewels and stones present in the form of pendants. The anklets were known as Lallong Rasanthi. The foot ornaments were of two types. One Payal other toe ring called Angurtha. It is round at the edges but the top has the shape of a fish, flower or any other design. Few tribal women wore silver coins, black beads and multi coloured stones around the neck. Their nose ornament called Bulak was set with pearls or other gems. It was worn in the centre with a small golden wire and jewel dangling down on the centre curve of the upper lip. A Powder made from turmeric, basin and lime was used.

Jammu and Kashmir

The clothes of the villagers were simple and extremely neat in appearance. There was very little difference between the garments for men and women. They both wore long loose and heavy gowns with buttons at the neck. In winter these garments were made of wool and on summer they were made of cotton. Kashmir has people of two different regions – Hindu and Muslims.

Hindu Male and Female costumes

Men folk usually wore shirt and Churidaar Pyjama. They also wore Pheran. The head dress was a turban. The tucks of white turban were on the right. The gown with long narrow sleeves was fastened on the left side. The pandits wore dark maroon dress called Kimsi. They also wore Tarang, a cap with a right band. On this cap a scarf was pinned with the golden and black beads called Poache, Kinsi, Mirror dress. The women of Dogra races at the foothills of the Kashmir put on close fitting trousers along with extremely loose tunics. They also carried a Chunni around their heads.

Muslim Male and Female Costumes

Muslim male wore Salwar and Shirt. They wore Pheran which was plain most of the times. The sleeves were wide and loose. It was a sign of respectability to wear cuffs turned backward. The head dress they wore was a skilled cap made of cotton. The tucks of the turban were on the left. The trousers of the Muslim men were loose and wide and their gowns were fastened on the right side.

Muslim female wore long cotton shirts and Salwars with loose Pouches. They also wore Pherans which were very loose dresses worn over the shirts. Pheran hung down almost till the anklets. It had loose sleeves and open collar which slipped down the neck with its heavy folds. A waist cloth was worn on their heads when at work. A Burkha was worn while going out. The Burkha of the old ladies was white in colour and that for ladies of the royal families was black in colour.

Ornaments

Silver jewelry was commonly used. Kanakandi was a special kind of armlet and earring. The Koka was a small stud of single diamond or ruby fixed at the corner of the left nostril. The Mukri was a golden or silver loop worn on the outer border of the ear. Kantha was a necklace made up of heavy bells of gold. The Hansali was a ring of gold and silver worn around the neck. As a perfume the females of Kashmir used camphor, sandal and saffron.

Footwear

Leather shoes were worn by well to do men and women. Ordinary Kashmiris wore straw sandals.

Hairstyle

Female of Kashmir has a peculiar hair style of arranging many plaits, women with black wool or silk.

Kutch and Savarashtra

Male Costumes

The lower garment of men of this area was Churidaar Pyjama known as Corano and Sarvala. The Sarvala was loose above the knees and tight below. It had a number of horizontal folds at the ankle. Along with Sarvala a short shirt called Passabandi was worn. It was a tight fitted garment above the waist and flared below. Passabandi was tied up on the left side with the help of strings. This costume was generally worn by farmers and other lower class men. The upper class men wore jackets or coats. The men folk of Kutch used to carry a loose cloth which was plain or had a small border. One side was rounded up and held under the armpit and the second piece was worn over the trousers. This cloth was draped from the back and the edges were brought in the front. The lower edges of the draped cloth were also brought in the front and tied up. The back side was draped till or below the knees and over it they wore a sash to hold the piece lengthwise. The Bania class wore a Dhoti, in which pleats were formed in the front by cloth coming from the left and the right sides. These pleats formed in the centre were passed through the legs and tucked at the back. They wore a pleated form of turban known as Pagrin, while going out they wore a long coat called Vagho.

Female Costumes

The women of agriculturist class used to wear rough material Lungi, tightly wrapped around the hips. The two edges used to meet at the centre front. The upper part of the body was covered with a back fastening or a backless Choli called Kasali. The Choli which was tied with strings was called Kankho. The Lungi was worn below the level of the navel and the women of Savarashtra never attempted to cover their bare parts. They used to take an Odhani known as Cerso with which they covered their head and it was brought in front from the back of the shoulder and then under the armpit finally tucking it in the Choli. One edge of the Cerso was tucked in the waist. The ladies of the upper class wore a skirt called Ghaghra. The Ghaghra with very big flare was called Phulpha. The one with five coloured panels was called Panipal or Gagro. With the Ghaghra, they wore a backless Choli which was heavily embroidered with silken or golden and silver threads. The Dupatta or Odhani was very long and used to be worn in two styles. One was forming pleats and tucking it at the waist like a half Saree. And the other was forming pleats at the edge tucking it at the waist and covering the head with the waist and covering the head with the outer edge then bringing it in the front and tucking it at the waits. The Dupatta/Odhani carried by women of this area were of these following types.